The amazing things you can acheive with paint !

Join me for an inside view of a painters world, a world filled with people, places, color and design. My painting company is a perfect platform to show you all the amazing things you can achieve with paint. There will be photo's, stories and DIY tips. From time to time I will throw in some of my art work.
Array of color inc specializes in interior, exterior painting and faux finishes. Our services areas are Indian River Cnty, St. Lucie, Martin and Palm Beach Counties. Call for a free estimate - 772-528-6365

Thursday, March 22, 2012

Painted Faux Wood Finish On Metal Doors

       A Painted faux wood finish on metal doors can add that amazing touch needed to enhance the front entry of your home. Follow these easy steps I have provided and you will be the talk of your neighborhood.

 This is a great project to do over the week end, it could take four to eight hours to complete depending on your level of expertise. Check out the supply list below to complete this project.

Supply list - Good weather, Latex paint brush 2 1/2 in. flat sash, China bristle brush 2 1/2 in. flat sash, 1 1/2 in. latex angled sash brush, Cut buckets ( 2 ) Cotton rags, 1 1/2 in. Frog tape, 1 in. One roll of KleenEdge tape, Drop cloth, Philips head screw driver, Sand paper 150 grit, One quart Sherwin Williams # 6334 Resilience exterior satin latex for the base coat, One quart of Sherwin Williams # 6090 Resilience exterior satin for the glaze, One quart of Black exterior latex satin. One quart latex glaze, One quart of exterior Spar Varnish. One quart of mineral spirits. Blow drier.

 First, remove door knobs and locks and keep in safe place.

     Next apply the Frog tape around the molding framing the glass, tape the area around the molding of the door frame, top and sides. The bottom ( threshold ) can be covered with the tarp or paper.
      Sand the doors with the 150 grit and wipe clean. Sand in the direction of the panels, side pieces sand up and down and top and bottom pieces sand side to side.
Note: Homes built prior to 1978 may contain lead based paint. The dust or fumes created by cleaning, sanding or disturbing these surfaces can lead to adverse health effects in children and pregnant women. For more information please call National Lead Information Center at 1-800-424 LEAD.

  Start applying the base coat listed above in the direction of the door panels. Apply two coats and let each coat dry before re-applying.

  Apply glaze mixture of 4 oz. SW# 6090 to 1 oz. Black latex and 2 oz. latex glaze. to the top panel of the door using your 2 1/2 flat sash brush.

    Use the KleenEdge tape to separate the side panels from the top and bottom. This will give you very sharp edges which looks like the wood was cut to fit. The tape should be applied on the outside of the window frame.

   Apply a small amount of glaze between the tape, wipe your brush on a rag and then run the brush threw the glaze in one movement from side to side. Don't stop, this will give you the look of a grain pattern. There will be a few minutes before the glaze dries so there is some time to alter your work.

   Once the top and bottom sections are completed it's time to apply the KleenEdge tape to the insides of the frame over the dried faux you applied earlier. I use a blow drier to make sure the glaze is fully dry before applying the tape. This will get you ready to do the sides of the door.

   Now, apply the glaze to the bottom of the side of your choice with your brush and run the brush up the side panel to the top of the door.
   Wipe your brush on a rag and with one move drag your brush from the top to the bottom threw the glaze. Remember there is only a little time to correct anything your not happy with.

   The window frame can be fauxed at this point and finally the door frame. Use the 1 1/2 in. angled sash for these areas. If you prefer, the window frame could be fauxed first and then follow all the above. Wipe off any glaze which gets on the bare panels while fauxing the window frames.

   When all is completed and dry apply the Spar Varnish with the China bristle brush first with a 50/ 50 mix of mineral spirits. Let this application dry and apply full strength Spar varnish. Apply the varnish in the direction of the faux wood. Apply your hardware when fully dry, remove all the tape carefully,  step back and admire your work.

Sunday, March 11, 2012

How to paint a straight line

How do you paint a straight line is a frequently asked question. The answer is practice, practice and more practice. Before cutting in your room    purchase a quality professional paint brush for the type of paint you’re using. 2 1/2 in. angle sash brush would be a good choice. Providing you have all the needed supplies to paint the room I would take some time and practice the steps listed below until you feel confident enough to tackle your project.

I made a practice board which is made of a piece of scrap dry wall and molding. This will be a great way to build your skill and confidence.  The molding is attached with a spring loaded clamp which can be easily moved to the next clean area to paint. The practice board can be painted over and over without messing up your own walls and depending on how the molding is held you can practice the different positions which are used for the ceiling, door frames and base molding.

Let’s say you’re looking to cut in next to a door frame, position your board vertically on a table and apply the paint as mentioned below. Each time you’re finished with an area move the molding over to start a clean section. When the entire board is used apply a coat of white over the board and start over.

At this point you have your practice board ready and we need to pour about 2 inches of paint into a one gallon cut bucket, this will keep the brush from being over loaded.

Lightly dip the paint brush into the paint and lift the brush out of the paint but still in the cut bucket, press the sides of the brush against the sides of the can, this process loads paint onto the bristles and shapes the bristles into a sharp edge. Wiping the brush against the top of the cut bucket will not help. Applying to much paint to the brush will lead to a big mess. Paint should not come up more than half way of the bristles.

Hold the brush handle resting between your thumb and pointer finger and fingers on the *ferrule with the thumb resting on the other side. The pinky finger will be used as support. Since we are applying paint at the door frame the brush will be in a vertical position. ( ferrule is the metal band along the base of the brush )


At this point your brush should have paint in the bristles and a sharp edge. Move the brush onto the wall slightly away from the door frame and slowly move the brush closer till you meet the corner of frame and wall.

  The top side edge of the bristles will now be in this corner, move the brush down the edge applying slight even pressure, when you see skipping of the paint it is time to reload paint onto your brush. After cutting your first path feather the edge out 3 in. and away from the frame. Move the same direction as the door frame.

Work near the bottom section of the board and apply the next coat above it and into it, this will keep a wet edge.

Repeat this until the entire edge is cut in.

Remember that the pressure that is applied to the brush will change the line you’re cutting in.
The amount of paint on the brush will also determine the outcome. Here you will get the chance to see what amount paint gives the best results.
Don’t waste your time with cheap tools.

Move the molding over to give way for another
practice cut in. This a great way to build eye and hand coordination and professional looking results. Cutting in a room will be much more satisfying!

Practice, Practice, Practice!