Warm Faux Glaze Technique

      Here is a beautiful warm faux glaze technique where only a sea sponge was used. The sea sponge can be highly affective,  producing many designs and patterns which can be applied to the walls or many other surfaces.

     The walls had a very heavy orange peel texture which made the technique  more dramatic. There were three colors used to produce this look.

     The base coat was painted with an latex eggshell finish by
Benjamin Moore #193
The first glaze color # 105 eggshell finish
Second glaze color # 1035 eggshell finish
One quart of quality latex glaze

      Using  a practice board before you start is recommended.

     I purchased quarts of the paint which were used in the glaze. One gallon of paint for this project was more than enough for the wall.

    Prep your walls, tape off the moldings if needed and apply plastic or tarps to the area. Apply the base coat #193 latex eggshell finish to the walls.

   Once the wall is completely dry it is time to apply the first glaze #105. I used a tbl. spoon of color to 4 ounces of latex glaze. Glaze can go a long way especially with this technique.

   Apply the the glaze to a small area with a brush using a small amount of product. Take the dampened sea sponge and put onto the paint on the wall, move the glaze around on the wall spreading it out from the original area.  This thin glaze when dry will become darker. Each application of glaze should be applied to the next bare area blending into the previous.

   When applying the glaze think of a puzzle and how all the pieces are different, move the glaze around to form various shapes and sizes. This will keep the fuax looking random.

   Keep your sponge damp. Poncing your sponge on the surface will remove glaze and re-apply in others. Control the glaze by adding more or less. Note: going over dried glaze will produce a darker effect.

   Remember not to apply glaze into the corners with your brush, this will become very heavy looking when it dries and will look like pie crust. Apply the glaze lightly several inches away and work into the corners with your sponge. Rinse out your sponge when its over loaded with glaze.

  The second glaze #1035 will be mixed the same as the first but applied much less. Randomly apply the glaze lightly and spread out. This glaze will change the color of the first and make it deeper in tone. Have fun painting!





    

Paint Your Chandelier

 


   Here are a couple of tips to give your chandelier new life.
Painting your chandelier will give it new character, that's right! Both of these fixtures had a old bronze finish that seen better days and it was time for a change.

   We left the fixture hanging for this painting process due to its size. I would recommend before working on or taking the fixture down  always shut the electric breaker off before starting. Cleaning the dust and grime off is very important. I used a dust brush. Remove all the light bulbs and crystals. Most of the fixture was sprayed with a Black Satin finish from Rustoleum to get into the tough to reach areas.  We finished up the painting with Black Satin Alkyd paint using a 1in. brush, this was mainly used to touch up. Let the paint dry, replace the crystals and lights and that's it!

For a contemporary look the light shades were not used and the light bulbs were switch to florescent.

Faux Glaze Technigue

       Here is an easy faux glaze technique which has a lot of character and sophistication. In the photos shown the colors used gave this interior a soft distressed look with
out overwhelming the area.
     
       The pattern was achieved with a roller 1/2 in. nap shed resistant. The glaze mixture was very thin.

    Base Color used - Ben Moore # OC-59 Flat, 1 qt.
    Paint for glaze - Ben Moore # 1035 flat, 1 qt.
    Glaze - 1qt. good quality 

        After applying the base coats as needed let dry. At this point start to mix your glaze. I mixed three ounces of paint with six ounces of glaze and then added twelve ounces of water.

      Cutting in is done by taking a twelve inch compound blade and placing it into the corners, then run a mini roller up and into the blade. This-technique could be very messy so to insure a neater application do not over load your rollers.  

      Start your cutting in at the top and then use your larger roller vertically from left to right.
Do not add too much pressure to the roller which may release a lot of glaze. Your passes with the roller should be random and at times running diagonal.

     There is no need for a paint brush to cut in close to the corners, it will look more distressed
using a roller. Leave some of the base color to show threw.

     I recommend practicing the technigue first on a board and not your walls. Once comfortable with the technique your ready, enjoy!

Original Painting

     Here is an original painting I recently finished on 24 in. x 36 in. canvas. Acrylic paint was used and the inspiration came from this magnificent White Fir I photographed in Emerald Bay, Lake Tahoe.

    We all have an idea of what a tree looks like but this tree had so much character.  I decided to zoom in to capture the twisted limbs and the nubby, flaky bark.

    The sunlight plays on the branches which were shaped from the ice and snow during the many winters.

    The grayish bark against the blue sky just jumps right out at you. Short yellow green pine needles hang in a pattern only mother nature could design.

     It all seems chaotic but there's a great deal of grace and
beauty in it's composition.

    You could spent a lot of time admiring all the beautiful landscape that Emerald Bay has to offer.

    I look forward to the next trip!

Painted Faux Wood

 

   Here are some great examples of painted faux wood ( faux bois ). These photos were taken at the Old State Capitol in Baton Rouge, LA.

 
  Artisans from around the world created this amazing faux wood over cypress to look like oak, I think they did a fantastic job.

    The entire interior is decorated with wonderfully crafted moldings, faux bois, gold leaf, stained glass and so much more.

   If your ever in the area of Baton Rouge take a tour of this beautiful building and it’s interior, you won’t be sorry.

   Each piece of wood has it's own personality which is a sign of a talented professional. Click on the photos to get a closer view of the different grain patterns.

Needless to say I was very impressed not only by the beautiful work but the enormous size of the project.

The ceiling moldings were all painted a faux wood finish, amazing!
Look closely and you'll see the gold leaf on all the rosettes.
The attention to detail throwout this buildings interior is incredible. Just think how much time it took to paint every inch of doors, moldings and trim.

 





Check out all the intricate wood carvings and attention to detail and yes this entry way is all faux wood.

Primary Colors

Check out this beautiful glass umbrella of primary colors! I took a trip to Louisiana and visited the Old State Capitol building located in downtown Baton Rouge. Upon entering every where you look there is amazing craftsmanship from the faux wood entry doors to the stained glass ceiling shown above. A beautiful spiral staircase leads you up to this tremendous umbrella of stained glass in primary colors. This is a great example of how red, yellow and blue working together can be very elegant.

Painted Faux Wood Finish On Metal Doors

       A Painted faux wood finish on metal doors can add that amazing touch needed to enhance the front entry of your home. Follow these easy steps I have provided and you will be the talk of your neighborhood.

Before

After

     
 This is a great project to do over the week end, it could take four to eight hours to complete depending on your level of expertise. Check out the supply list below to complete this project.




Supply list - Good weather, Latex paint brush 2 1/2 in. flat sash, China bristle brush 2 1/2 in. flat sash, 1 1/2 in. latex angled sash brush, Cut buckets ( 2 ) Cotton rags, 1 1/2 in. Frog tape, 1 in. One roll of KleenEdge tape, Drop cloth, Philips head screw driver, Sand paper 150 grit, One quart Sherwin Williams # 6334 Resilience exterior satin latex for the base coat, One quart of Sherwin Williams # 6090 Resilience exterior satin for the glaze, One quart of Black exterior latex satin. One quart latex glaze, One quart of exterior Spar Varnish. One quart of mineral spirits. Blow drier.

 First, remove door knobs and locks and keep in safe place.

     Next apply the Frog tape around the molding framing the glass, tape the area around the molding of the door frame, top and sides. The bottom ( threshold ) can be covered with the tarp or paper.
      Sand the doors with the 150 grit and wipe clean. Sand in the direction of the panels, side pieces sand up and down and top and bottom pieces sand side to side.
Note: Homes built prior to 1978 may contain lead based paint. The dust or fumes created by cleaning, sanding or disturbing these surfaces can lead to adverse health effects in children and pregnant women. For more information please call National Lead Information Center at 1-800-424 LEAD.






  Start applying the base coat listed above in the direction of the door panels. Apply two coats and let each coat dry before re-applying.









  Apply glaze mixture of 4 oz. SW# 6090 to 1 oz. Black latex and 2 oz. latex glaze. to the top panel of the door using your 2 1/2 flat sash brush.

    Use the KleenEdge tape to separate the side panels from the top and bottom. This will give you very sharp edges which looks like the wood was cut to fit. The tape should be applied on the outside of the window frame.

   Apply a small amount of glaze between the tape, wipe your brush on a rag and then run the brush threw the glaze in one movement from side to side. Don't stop, this will give you the look of a grain pattern. There will be a few minutes before the glaze dries so there is some time to alter your work.

   Once the top and bottom sections are completed it's time to apply the KleenEdge tape to the insides of the frame over the dried faux you applied earlier. I use a blow drier to make sure the glaze is fully dry before applying the tape. This will get you ready to do the sides of the door.

   Now, apply the glaze to the bottom of the side of your choice with your brush and run the brush up the side panel to the top of the door.
   Wipe your brush on a rag and with one move drag your brush from the top to the bottom threw the glaze. Remember there is only a little time to correct anything your not happy with.

   The window frame can be fauxed at this point and finally the door frame. Use the 1 1/2 in. angled sash for these areas. If you prefer, the window frame could be fauxed first and then follow all the above. Wipe off any glaze which gets on the bare panels while fauxing the window frames.

   When all is completed and dry apply the Spar Varnish with the China bristle brush first with a 50/ 50 mix of mineral spirits. Let this application dry and apply full strength Spar varnish. Apply the varnish in the direction of the faux wood. Apply your hardware when fully dry, remove all the tape carefully,  step back and admire your work.

How to paint a straight line

How do you paint a straight line is a frequently asked question. The answer is practice, practice and more practice. Before cutting in your room    purchase a quality professional paint brush for the type of paint you’re using. 2 1/2 in. angle sash brush would be a good choice. Providing you have all the needed supplies to paint the room I would take some time and practice the steps listed below until you feel confident enough to tackle your project.

I made a practice board which is made of a piece of scrap dry wall and molding. This will be a great way to build your skill and confidence.  The molding is attached with a spring loaded clamp which can be easily moved to the next clean area to paint. The practice board can be painted over and over without messing up your own walls and depending on how the molding is held you can practice the different positions which are used for the ceiling, door frames and base molding.

Let’s say you’re looking to cut in next to a door frame, position your board vertically on a table and apply the paint as mentioned below. Each time you’re finished with an area move the molding over to start a clean section. When the entire board is used apply a coat of white over the board and start over.

At this point you have your practice board ready and we need to pour about 2 inches of paint into a one gallon cut bucket, this will keep the brush from being over loaded.

Lightly dip the paint brush into the paint and lift the brush out of the paint but still in the cut bucket, press the sides of the brush against the sides of the can, this process loads paint onto the bristles and shapes the bristles into a sharp edge. Wiping the brush against the top of the cut bucket will not help. Applying to much paint to the brush will lead to a big mess. Paint should not come up more than half way of the bristles.

Hold the brush handle resting between your thumb and pointer finger and fingers on the *ferrule with the thumb resting on the other side. The pinky finger will be used as support. Since we are applying paint at the door frame the brush will be in a vertical position. ( ferrule is the metal band along the base of the brush )

 

At this point your brush should have paint in the bristles and a sharp edge. Move the brush onto the wall slightly away from the door frame and slowly move the brush closer till you meet the corner of frame and wall.

  The top side edge of the bristles will now be in this corner, move the brush down the edge applying slight even pressure, when you see skipping of the paint it is time to reload paint onto your brush. After cutting your first path feather the edge out 3 in. and away from the frame. Move the same direction as the door frame.

Work near the bottom section of the board and apply the next coat above it and into it, this will keep a wet edge.

Repeat this until the entire edge is cut in.

 

Remember that the pressure that is applied to the brush will change the line you’re cutting in.

The amount of paint on the brush will also determine the outcome. Here you will get the chance to see what amount paint gives the best results.

Don’t waste your time with cheap tools.

Move the molding over to give way for another
practice cut in. This a great way to build eye and hand coordination and professional looking results. Cutting in a room will be much more satisfying!

Practice, Practice, Practice!

Is it time to paint your exterior?

                                 

   Sometimes just looking at the paint on your exterior will not show any signs of the paint getting old. Get a little closer and run your finger tips along the wall and see what shows up. If there is a chalky residue on your finger tips it may be time to paint. If there is a light chalky residue pressure cleaning will remove most of it and a new paint finish can be delayed for now. If the chalk is medium to heavy it is time to paint, but not so fast there a few very important things to know and do prior to painting.

 

    First, what is chalk? Chalk is a natural process of paint as it erodes from the sun, wind and rain. The binder in the paint degrades over time and the paint pigment rises to the top leaving a chalky residue. Depending on the quality of the paint will determine how long the finish will last. Quality paint will last much longer especially if a primer was applied prior to painting.

   Next, chalk must be removed to ensure proper paint adhesion. If your up for the task and your in good physical shape its time to pressure clean the exterior with a 1500 to 2500 psi pressure washer using a 25 degree tip/ nozzle. Ware the proper eye protection and clothing during this process. Note: Homes built prior to 1978 may contain lead based paint. The dust or fumes created by cleaning, sanding or disturbing these surfaces can lead to adverse health effects in children and pregnant women. For more information please call National Lead Information Center at 1-800-424 LEAD.

   While pressure cleaning, keep your pressure gun moving at an even pace. Concentrating on an area for too long will scar the area or remove the paint. Start cleaning at the top and go side to side, steadily reaching the bottom of your exterior walls. If there's areas which are hard to reach there are extensions which can be attached to the end of the pressure gun. The mixture of chalk and water will produce a milky color and will become clearer as the washing continues.. It can’t hurt to go over the area a second time to ensure proper cleaning.

   Note: Before pressure cleaning close all windows and doors. Move items that are close to the home so they will not fly into you during cleaning. Do not get to close to the windows while cleaning. If there are metal or plastic soffits try to keep the pressure off these areas; they tend to bend or displace the sections and sometimes damage these areas. Getting to close to wooden areas will scar the wood.
Window, doors and rooms which have screens be careful not to get to close to these areas, it will cut into the screens. Most important do not point pressure gun at any part of your body.

     Once the pressure cleaning is completed wait for the exterior to dry at least a full day. Wipe your fingers across the walls at several areas of the exterior and check if there is any chalk left. If there is chalk, is it light or heavy? If it’s heavy the exterior will need another washing. If the chalk is light a bonding primer should be applied to ensure proper adhesion of the paint.

    There are several products which work very well to give your exterior a sound surface to apply paint. Depending on what type of exterior surface you’ll be painting will determine the binding primer to use. Bonding additives such as Emulsa Bond can be used on wood and masonry. Oil base primers can be used on many types of substrates. Water base 100% acrylic emulsion conditioners are also very good for stucco or masonry substrates. Remember to ask for products that work well with mild to medium chalk.

   Follow the directions for the product which best suits your situation. Once completed, this vital procedure will create a proper surface for your paint and one which will keep your home exterior finish lasting for years.

  

Marble faux border

     OK! You're master bathroom has been faux painted but something is missing. There are great architectural lines in the room and they need to show. A great way to bring these beautiful lines out is to add a marble faux border. In this picture the marble matches the counter top and brings out the beautiful arch overhead. The glaze on the walls and the faux marble finish are from the same color.

     The rag technique was applied over a light beige eggshell finish with a diluted mixture of a deep chocolate latex paint in glaze. The marble boarder base coat was a full strength deep chocolate latex semi - gloss paint. To achieve a more realistic appearance use several lighter glazes over the base coat. Add veining with the lightest colors and run some darker veining randomly for depth. Apply water base urethane with a gloss finish to give that polished look  and to bring out all the color.

    Boarders can be applied in many areas of a room. Traditionally they were applied along the ceiling or across the room about chair rail height. Design your own boarder and add interesting lines to create some magic. Boarders will make a room look longer, wider or higher depending on were there applied and will also add that special touch you're looking for.

The Ceiling

                                                                

      What would we do without the ceiling? One of the most important structures to keep the elements out of our homes, protecting our lives and possessions is often passed by without so much as a glance.

     Hold off putting another picture on the wall and take a good look at your ceiling. Step out of the box and add some color and bring that ceiling to life. Now, I'm not asking you to paint a ceiling like Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel , but recognize that the ceiling is an import part of your decor and incorporating it into your design will enhance the area.

     The photos shown are samples of the options which can emphasize and draw attention to your ceilings. Ceilings can be as individual as you are, designs in countless variety. With some imagination and work you can produce an area which flows in harmony.

   

    So what keeps us from including the ceiling into our decorating plans? One big reason our ceilings have been neglected is fear, fear of the unknown. What color should I use? Where do I start? What are the costs? Who do I hire? Well, here's a few tips to get you started.

    Let’s start with a small step, for those with low ceilings, I suggest applying a color which is a few shades lighter than your walls. This will give the illusion of height to the area and a step out of the common box. This small change has a big impact; I have seen my clients change all their ceilings after one was painted. It is very uplifting!

    Higher ceilings can have darker shades of color to bring the ceiling lower and cozier.

In some of the photo’s there are different levels of faux finishes from basic techniques to more advanced.  Do your homework and try this yourself or hire a professional. In either case you’ll have a ceiling to be proud of.

   What if my project does not turn out well? Remember it’s paint and it can be painted over, which is the beauty of it. But, I highly suggest sample boards of the colors and techniques that will be used before starting. Ask questions, ask for help, this will take a lot of pressure off and you’ll have greater success.

            So, let your ceiling shine and draw attention to such a great focal area in your home.

    Here is a great example of adding a warm color to the ceiling which makes a large room cozier.  In most cases adding color alone will change the area, this is also cost affective, small steps can give big results.

                                      Adding a coffered ceiling is always a show stopper
   Money may be an issue when considering an architectural change, if there's no issue here than
                                                                      go for it!  

        Metallic gold painted crown moldings and faux painted sponge technique adds sophistication.
              This is great idea if there are coffered or tray ceilings in your home.                          

2012 Color of the year!

       If you’re looking for an energizing, sophisticated, dramatic, seductive and warm color for your interior or fashion, I have just the right color. Pantone a world recognized color authority named Tangerine Tango for color of the year 2012.

 

     This beautiful reddish orange color will be used in homes, fashion and of course paint.

Give yourself a dose of energy by adding this color to your wardrobe or painting an accent wall in your home.

     In the photos shown the interior of this home was done entirely with fauxed red orange walls.

I would best describe the technique as a distressed strie. Dragging a brush threw the red orange glaze vertically down the wall and removing some areas with a rag.

Have the warmth of a beautiful sunset every day!

   

Build an entertainment center

       I recently custom built a home entertainment center in my own home. I was looking for a multifunctional unit which I could share with my family and friends. This unit is a focal point in my family room and one which is contemporary in design. If your creative and handy get started on your dream otherwise get someone to help.

      Millions of Americans have had a love affair with their TVs and multimedia for decades and with the new flat screens it has opened up a whole new way to watch, listen and decorate.

  

     Give us a place to sit and a TV and we are in heaven. But for some of us we want more.

 We want the look, the feel and the excitement. For the past several years people have become more creative on their personal entertainment area in their homes. The flat screen TV’s have opened up a whole new line of entertainment furniture and unique ways to enhance your space. Man caves are developing into very complex entertainment areas with very large flat screens and theater like sound, popcorn machines and full bar.

  This past 2011 holiday season, prices for flat screens have never been better, which got me motivated to build this unit. I used 2x4’s and dry wall on this project. I added an electric fireplace for that warm home feeling. Venetian plaster was used to decorate the surround and the mantle. The five square openings at the top have lighting which gives a nice warm glow in the evening.

      Floating shelves are a great place to add your favorite things to display or you can put your stereo system there. There are countless options to choose from to fit the mood you would like to create and your personal style.

     The wall unit is approximately 9.5h x 12.5 ft.w and 2 ft. deep from the mantle. Keeping simple added to its contemporary style. Two colors were used to paint the unit, Benjamin Moore # 1122 flat latex on the shelves and rear walls, #1124 on the center unit also in flat latex. The top moldings were painted with # 1122 flat.

      There are two Venetian plaster colors # 1122 on the fireplace surround and # 1125 on the mantel. The mantel has two colors which I applied one over the other sanded and then burnished. The fireplace is electric and looks so real. Above the mantel is a compartment which holds all my CD’s, cable box and all the wires from the Flat screen and other electronics.

     Take a look at the before and after pictures, what a change.  So turn that boring wall into something special and sit back, relax and enjoy! Well, got to go and watch my favorite show.